Nothing screams a desperate Mum trying to prove ‘you can travel how you did before kids’ more than taking a 12-week-old and 2-year-old on a 9 hour flight to Canada… in winter… where temperatures dropped to minus 28 degrees!
Surprisingly, I would say this was one of my easiest flights with my two children. Probably because my son was so young and it was also our first flight with the marvel bassinet.
We have been to Banff before in the summer, kid-free, and it was where we got engaged. It has a special place in my heart and if I could only return to one country again and again, it would be Canada and specifically Banff.
I hope to go back one summer with the kids as I think the biggest struggle on this trip was the weather. It was cold. I mean really cold. Colder than your Mother-in-law’s heart.
Keeping my 12-week-old warm was actually easier than my two-year-old as 90% of the time he was on me in a carrier.
The pram was so impractical because the amount of snow; it just kept getting stuck. The photo above is our first day before a huge snow fall.
For more tips of winter or snow holidays with toddlers or how to keep little ones warm click here.
I have also create a winter packing list for toddlers.
Where to stay in Canadian Rockies with Toddlers
Banff is expensive and mainly consists of hotel rooms. There are few Airbnbs, but the ones within walking distance of town require you to sell at least one of your children.
One of the more reasonable and family friendly accommodations in Banff center is Douglas Fir Resort & Chalet. It is one of the few self-catering resorts and also has a water park and an indoor soft play! Though friends that have stayed here said it was quite run down.
We visited Banff with toddlers in February. But on previous summer trips, we stayed in various oTENtik locations across Banff and Jasper National Park.
I think this would be such an exciting accommodation to do with older toddlers or children and it is on our list to return with our children one day.
They are really basic wooden and canvas structures dotted around the most beautiful campsites.
The only cooking facilities are a BBQ and the campfire and there are no toilet facilities. Therefore, I would only stay a couple of night with young ones.
And actually you would be lucky to get a couple of nights in the same spot as they are incredibly hard to book so set an alarm for when they go on sale.
I personally always like self-catering, with young children, over a hotel room. I find it so much easier for cooking, preparing bottles, with separate sleeping arrangements and just that extra room to play and move around, especially for longer trips.
For this reason, and for a much cheaper option, we stayed in Canmore and we did not regret this choice!
Canmore with Toddlers
The main street of Canmore is far less busy and almost as beautiful as Banff.
The restaurants and shops have the same quaint Canadian feel, and you are still surrounded by the beautiful Rocky Mountains.
It is so close to Banff, just a 15-20 minute drive, so found this a really convenient, cheap and uniquely scenic base for exploring the national park with toddlers.
Within walking distance of the main street, there are plenty of holiday complexes with self catering options and something for every families needs.
If you need help finding the right accommodation for your, check out my travel services here.
There are also plenty of kid-friendly places to eat, a playground and a leisure centre with a swimming pool.
Things to do in Canmore with toddlers
Elevation Place
To escape the Baltic elements, we spent a couple of mornings swimming at Elevation Place – right in the centre of Canmore.
It is a simple swimming pool with a lazy river, and a couple of slides. They were too big for our two at the time but possibly ok for older toddlers.
Our children love swimming, so this was a nice opportunity for some free play.
A definitely true story and not embellished by a toddler at all… no this actually is true but does sound like something that would come out of your toddlers mouth at bedtime: When we came out of the swimming pool and walked about 10 meters to the car – my hair was wet and it actually froze! I cannot stress how cold it was.
Canmore Town Centre
Walking around Canmore town itself is just lovely. I say town, it really is just one main street with a few shops, restaurants and several side streets to explore.
Though we did find it difficult pushing the pram in the snow and my two-year-old was struggling to walk; so we couldn’t spend too long exploring the quaint shops and delightful restaurants.
There is an accessible and easy walk just off the main street: Policeman creek trail. It is on a smooth boardwalk so if the snow is not too high it is pram friendly.
Whatever holiday we go on, we always try to find a park for some free play.
There are quite a few play areas around Canmore and the surrounding areas. This may sound strange with deep snow but this just added an extra element of fun!
As ‘The Last of Us’ fans, there is a famous bridge from the series that we were dying to see. The Canmore Engine Bridge which crosses Bow River is close to Canmore town centre.
You could probably walk, especially in summer, it but we found some free parking so saved our little one’s legs.
It ended up being an easy, and toddler friendly, short walk from where we parked and nice views of the river and some wildlife.
So even if you are not post-apocalyptic zombie fanatics, it is a nice way to spend the morning.
Banff with Toddlers
Though I would definitely choose to stay in Canmore, Banff is the highlight of any Rocky Mountain trip and we found plenty of activities for our baby and toddler to enjoy.
Walks in Banff with toddlers
The highlight of any Banff trip is hiking, and this was certainly the main activity on our kid-free summer trip when I was also 5 stone lighter!
However, there are still some toddler friendly treks near town and even more so if you go in the summer.
1.2 miles really was our 2-year-old’s limit but remember this was in particularly deep snow and heavy snow gear so I think in the summer this would be more than do able.
One benefit of visiting in the winter is you do not have to worry about your toddlers playing Goldilocks with a grizzly. Though still be extremely cautious of wildlife, particularly elk.
Fenland Trail
This is one of my favourite walks and it really does not feel like you are just a stone’s throw from the main street.
In just 1.2 miles, you pass through all the different backdrops available in Canada, with woodland, rivers, forest and mountain views galore!
Bow River Trail
This is another toddler friendly 1.2 mile hike right near the centre of town.
The highlight of this hike is the stunning view of Bow Falls.
If you only fancy doing one hike from town I would chose Fenland Trail as you can actually park at Bow Falls and admire the view or have a picnic.
Activities in Banff with Toddlers
Banff Gondola
Banff Gondola is good in all weathers and at Christmas they have Santa’s Grotto at the top.
Although, in Summer the views are much clearer and you are able to be outside for more than 0.2 seconds.
If you are visiting during tamer weather there is a nice short hike: Sulphur Mountain Boardwalk to Cosmic Ray Station and Sanson’s Peak.
Though it is a smooth boardwalk, there are a lot of stairs, so it is not pram friendly.
Still, it is only 0.6 miles so doable with toddlers.
In the winter, we stayed inside mostly and there are lots of interactive educational activities for children to enjoy.
The often have different events, depending on the time of year.
We also liked ascending whilst it was still light and descending in the dark or at dusk so check sunset times before you go.
Cave and Basin National Historic Site
Cave and Basin is a cheap ($10 for adults, free for under 17 year olds) museum type attraction that truthfully we used just to escape the elements but actually our children really enjoyed it.
It is really close to the main street though it also has its own paid parking.
Inside the site you can explore the cave (if you have Scotopic Vision), enjoy interactive learning activities and when we visited there were outdoor winter games like curling which was really fun!
There is also a little chill out area with bean bags and children’s books if your children are in need of some down time.
Outside there is a small, but staired, walk to view the cave from above.
Lake Louise
As one of the most famous and iconic destinations in the Canadian Rockies, a trip to Banff is incomplete without visiting Lake Louise.
Though it is actually 40 minutes from Banff, and parking can be a bit of a nightmare, it really is not to be missed.
There are plenty of public buses to Lake Louise, which may be a better option.
In Summer, you can enjoy kayaking across the turquoise waters. There is no age requirement and lifejackets are provided. Although we did this kid free, I would feel confident doing this with sensible toddlers (if they exist) or young children.
The out and back hike around the outside of Lake Louise is doable for older toddlers as you can easily turn back when you feel you need to.
The end gets quite narrow and it finishes with stepping stones which I wouldn’t feel confident attempting with my kamikaze kids.
In winter, the hiking trail turns into a track for a beautiful horse drawn carriage.
It reaches the frozen waterfall and then turns back over the frozen lake. This was one of the highlights of our trip and the best nap my son has ever had.
The same company also offer carriage rides from downtown Banff. This is something I definitely recommend adding to your winter itinerary.
From late November, Lake Louise freezes which presents the opportunity to ice skate on the iconic lake.
I, personally, don’t trust my toddlers around clothes pegs so bladed shoes are a no-go.
Instead we played in the snow at the side of the lake which was probably more fun for them and much better for my blood pressure.
On our summer holiday to Banff, we spent many hours people watching in the bar at the renowned Fairmont Hotel. We even witnessed a wedding that I am sure cost more than Blippi’s annual wage.
In winter, there wasn’t as much to do inside the hotel but it is always worth a walk around.
Johnston Canyon
Another iconic landmark within Banff and a highly touristic destination is Johnston Canyon.
Whatever time of year you visit, it will be busy.
This is a stunning hike consisting of two main destination waterfalls (the Lower Falls and Upper Falls) but there are five smaller waterfalls to view along the way.
In winter with a baby and 2-year-old, we only managed to hike to the bottom of the start of the first hike as the car park is quite far away.
As the trails are so busy they can also get quite icy in the winter so we bought crampons.
In the summer, I definitely think you could venture to the first fall with toddlers, but I wouldn’t attempt any further as the return to the car park is a hike in itself.
Johnston Canyon is about a 30 minute drive from downtown Banff and, whether you drive or take the bus, I suggest taking Bow Valley Parkway (Highway 1A) as an opportunity for wildlife spotting.
Bow Valley Parkway (Highway 1A)
I had previous read (seen on TikTok) about this famous wildlife drive that you can “supposedly” see abundance of bears, elk and moose. So obviously we had to check it out.
We often reference this drive to this day when something is complete and utterly f-ing useless.
Our first trip to Canada was during the notorious forest fires that banished any wildlife for miles. Our next trip was in the height of winter which naturally made wildlife scarce.
I must have made my husband drive Highway 1A over 20 times on both trips and we really didn’t see much but I hope this was just circumstance so I don’t want to put you off this renowned road.
If you do see more than a blue bottle fly please contact me so I can gloat to my husband.
Icefields Parkway
Another iconic drive that we have done several times is Icefields Parkway that can take you all the way to Jasper. So is great if you plan on spending a few days there.
We have stayed in Jasper as a young couple but I don’t think it is worth the journey with toddlers.
Don’t get me wrong, it is still beautiful with plenty of hikes and things to do but I class it as the Temu version of Banff.
In summer, Icefields Parkway provides plenty of stop offs for a road trip. Our favourites include: Bow Lake, Peyto Lake, Mistaya Canyon, Columbia Icefield, Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca Falls.
Some of these you can admire from the side of the road, others you need to hike to so research your priorities and what you think your toddlers can tolerate before you go.
We personally opted for stops we could get out and get a quick snap or admire from the car.
How far you drive really depends on your child’s endurance to a long road trip and the driving conditions – which can change daily.
In winter, we struggled to get in many miles on Icefield Parkway due to the snowfall. It was beautiful but we did have some twitchy bum moments whether we would make it back or not.
Husky sledding
One of our absolute highlights of our winter trip to Banff was driving to the Kananaskis and doing a self-led husky tour.
Kananaskis village is about an hour’s drive from Banff but just like any road trip in the Rockies, it is surrounded by beautiful mountains and wildlife.
Here we actually saw a pack of wolves feeding on a cattle and a couple of coyote crossing the road.
We booked our tour through Mad Dogs and Englishmen who also do summer tours.
We hit jackpot as we were the only guests booked on our particular tour and the guides were so attentive to our needs, stopping when we needed and cutting talks short if our children got bored.
Though for me, this was an absolute highlight of our trip, I wouldn’t actually recommend it with babies or toddlers.
They both fell asleep.
I don’t mind naps during activities, I try to have them all the time, but husky sledding is ridiculously expensive. It felt like a bloody expensive nap and instead of enjoying the moment I just had Mum guilt.
The Kananaskis are also truly magical to explore and you can actually drive to Fortress Mountain Resort where Inception was filmed.
Unfortunately, my son was in that phase of hating being in a car seat and bending back like a scene from the exorcist so we didn’t make it there.
Calgary Zoo
I am an animal fanatic, so is my daughter: if there is an ant in the house, we welcome it with a fairy cake… maybe that is why we have ants in the house.
I love visiting zoos or farms abroad but my husband thinks it is a waste of time, and I do get this theory, as you can see zoo animals anywhere.
Still, we both agreed that Calgary Zoo was a great day out with toddlers.
The only reason we went was because we had to check out of our accommodation and wanted to be nearer the airport so I definitely recommend this if you have some time before your flight home from Calgary.
Places to eat in Banff and Canmore with Toddlers
Whenever we go abroad with toddlers we usually cook at home as much as we can for cost, ease and ability to peel a banana specifically how your toddler desires.
However, in Canada we found that groceries were so expensive that actually eating out was sometimes easier or cheaper. Not that restaurants were cheap just that everything was expensive.
We were lucky that quite a few times both our children were sleeping whilst we went for a meal. We are not saints, just both kids were so young and the fresh air really did knock them out.
There aren’t any really kid friendly places (apart from McDonalds) but here are some of the places we enjoyed eating at.
Toddler Friendly restaurants in Banff
Bluebird Woodfired Steakhouse
This restaurant feels so authentically Canadian and has a fondue happy hour every day.
Though not extremely toddler friendly, we had a pleasant time here and they provide a kids menu.
Add melted cheese to anything and you can count me in!
Banff Ave brewing co
On our kid free trip, this was crowned the home of the best burger I have ever had. And I have had a lot of burgers!
Another highlight is the little balcony out the front that has the best views over Banff Avenue.
We returned with kids and oddly, adding a toddler to a balcony with a 20 foot drop wasn’t as magical as the previous visit.
The burger is still in my top 5 though.
Tooloulous
Tooloulous is located off a side street of the main avenue and specialises in breakfast.
It can get extremely busy but the inside has a very relaxed family vibe with good food options for kids.
Toddler Friendly restaurants in Canmore
Iron Goat Pub and Grill
I always recommend this to anyone going to Canmore although it is a significant walk out, especially in the snow.
Still, it is worth it. The food is amazing and the views are phenomenal.
It feels a little upper market for a family meal but the place was full of kids of all ages so we felt relaxed.
Rose & Crown Pub and restaurant
This was nothing to write home about but when we were walking into town from our accommodation into Canmore we ducked in here a few times to defrost.
We always felt relaxed with children here as it has a British pub feel with tucked away tables to stay out of the way.
The Grizzly Paw Taproom (Brewery location)
The views here are second to none and the laid back vibe makes it feel family friendly, though the menu is limited.
It is close to the Canmore accommodation so a nice place if you just want food and drink but don’t want to venture fully into town.
They also had a pub in town which looked really nice.
Tavern 1883
Again, this wasn’t the most family friendly restaurant we have ever been to but we went for dinner here and it was pleasant.
They welcomed the children and the food was really nice.
A lot of places still have outside seating, which feels weird in Canadian winter.
But unlike England, Canada is so prepared for extreme weather and the patio heaters could cook a whole chicken.
This was you can still enjoy the best thing about Canmore: the views.
Sauvage
Now this upmarket prestigious restaurant is far from toddler friendly but I just wanted to mention it for a few reasons.
If you are lucky enough to get a date night, this is the place to go.
A date nice abroad? Unless you sell your children to a cult how is that possible?
Birdie Break is an app that vets potential babysitters for locals or tourists. You put your dates and times that you require childcare and perspective and checked minders state their availability.
I have watched the Madeline McCain documentaries, but somehow my husband convinced me to get a babysitter that we have never met before to have our first ever date night since our son was born.
I was super reluctant, but my gosh not only did we have the best night out, but our babysitter was like the mum I’ve never had.
We opted for an older lady. She knew we were on holiday so bought her own bag of toys knowing our luggage was limited.
There was communication throughout the night, instigated by me, and when we returned our children were more than cared for and more importantly – still there!
What still stands out to me today is that my daughter suffers terribly from eczema and with the dry air in Canada, had an extreme flare up.
We had discussed this with the babysitter and she shared that she too suffered with eczema and kindly offered her advice.
The next day we get a knock at the door, and it was our lovely babysitter with some cream she had recommended.
I really think this story reflects the feel you get from Canadians and another reason I want to return again and again.
Canada really is such a magical country, in Summer, Winter, with or without kids and is the perfect destination for your next trip.
Need help planning your next family adventure?
It may feel daunting but if you need help planning a Canadian holiday then check out my travel services here.
